june 18th, 2010

Today, I was privileged to be invited to the American ambassador’s residence in Prague.  The occasion was an awards ceremony for an English language essay contest for Czech students.  The contest is sponsored by SPUSA, (friends of the USA), an organization made up mostly of elderly, fanatical anti-communists.  However, the school we are now working with is also SPUSA, and there is a connection between the two.

A few observations:

It’s an absolutely beautiful building and it is amazing to me that it was once a private home.  It belonged to a wealthy Jewish industrialist who, quite wisely, left the country in 1938.  Crystal chandeliers, cupboards full of museum style China, a beautiful garden out back that was more like the size of a park.  It was an oasis of old world elegance in the middle of a crowded, urban neighborhood.  Much, much more impressive than the actual American embassy.

Czech people are lousy at giving directions.  “It’s right next to Vitezni Namesti,” the woman told me over the phone.  When I arrived at Vitezni Namesti, I was still half an hour early.  When I arrived at the residence I was barely on time.  It’s a 5 minute walk, but it’s not “right next to” and it’s real easy to miss.

I was sitting right behind a guy who had half of one ear chopped off.  He was an old man so, indeed, brutal treatment by the communist regime was a possible explanation.  I didn’t talk to him, but it would fit.  Czech people don’t like to talk about communism much, but you know shit like that happened.

For some reason, there is no U.S. ambassador at the moment, so the Charge d’affaires gave the speech.  I blame the Republicans.

The food was pretty good, but buffets are always awkward.  I’d have gone back for seconds, but I was afraid to spill anything on my shirt.

The awards ceremony was, blessedly, short.

I didn’t read any of the essays, but I saw a booklet of last year’s winners.  I guess the idea is that if you can string together 800 or so words in English and remain coherent, you are among the finalists.  None of them amounted to great literature.

Still, a hell of a lot better than anything I could do in Czech.

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